8/11/2023 0 Comments Klipper orbiter extruder![]() ![]() Original X Y and Z are the same motor, and the extruder motor is the bigger one with a bit more torque. Same concept as the orbiter just different gear reduction system and Ieven lighter.īut looking online seems to be a toss up between the two.Īnd lastly, by using an extruder that came with a motor, I was able to reuse the extruder motor as a Y motor, since it is more torque.Īnd the left over original Y motor, is the same spec as the original Z motor so I used it as my second Z I only heard about it after I bought the orbiter. So for direct drive mount I would go with a lighter system.Īnd just to extend your choices there is something worth looking into is the Sherpa mini. Performance wise in term of moving filament they should be both just as good as one another, weight being the big factor at play. The orbiter may even be using clone BMG parts, not actually sure about that. ![]() Of course BMG clones are much cheaper and probably still really good if bought from reputable vendor like trianglelab. Only reason the orbiter can use a smaller lighter and less powerful motor is because of it’s gear ratio.Īlso price wise if you don’t buy a clone BMG the orbiter is cheaper even with motor included. I went with the orbiter because of it’s lighter weight, the BMG dual gear ( if that’s what you are talking about ) will be a lot heavier as it needs a strong motor ( basically the ender 3 extruder motor ), since the extruder is directly driven by the motor. The BMG is more common so you’ll find more options for mounting it. ![]() Also there’s a port for a PT100 sensor, supposedly more precise ( haven’t tried yet )Īlso able to completely shut down all fans when not printing but keeping the printer and Pi on ( pi is powered directly by the printer power supply through a step down converter ), fan turn on automatically when pi temp rises above 60C, or when stepper are enabled or if the hotend end temp goes above 35C ( all thanks to Klipper config options ). Dual Z port ( connected to one stepper driver, instead of cable split ) and down the line may try dual Z where each one has it’s own individual stepper driver ( extra port is on the daughter board ). Controlling current in klipper is so much better. Unless you do the UART mod ( never did myself ), then you can control it through klipper.īut eventually bought the BTT e3 RRF board and its daughter board ( got both boards for $35 on sale ). You can’t do it through klipper with the creality board without modding it, so yes I did the vref change like it is shown in the video ( set it to around 0.35 to 0.45 ) when I had the original board. Overall the instant config is what I like best. Only issue right now is z offset is changing all the time, I’m just not doing something right. Haven’t played with speed yet, could be interesting to push it a bit but not so much that my table would rattle. ( though same could be done with octoprint api ) So would need to send a shutdown before shutting down the tp link, need to figure out how to access the API directly and will get a lot more control that way. But I like the DIY approach.Ĭamera stream can easily be added to homebridge ( I have another pi with it running )įor the tp link, I set it up according to docs but not working as well, but I actually want another pi to control it as the pi in the printer is powered by the printer PSU. But octoeverywhere is probably a lot easier, haven’t tried it. But if I need to I would probably put a secure page with nginx proxy. Only thing I’m missing currently is a nob for z offset, need to try to add one to my pi that interfaces with it, shouldn’t be too hard. ( even just for something as simple as bltouch offset )ĭidn’t really use the screen anyway. What I liked most so far is instant config changes without recompiling. Haven’t done input shaper yet ( need to buy the accelerometer) Still new to it, so far I like it, didn’t print worse than before without calibrating pressure advance, so setting pressure advance only improved prints. ![]()
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